Sporting Chance: Back to Basics - Dave Black


At first glance it seems it should be easy to capture if not a great then certainly a good sports picture. After all, we watch sports events on television and have all the benefits of instant replay and slow motion to help us feel like experts when it comes to analyzing a play or a player. But I've based my freelance photography around sports and action images for more than 27 years, and I can tell you that when you're down on the sidelines the action moves faster than you might think, and making good pictures of athletes is a great challenge even for the best of us.


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Travel Plans - Rosanne Pennella


From my years of experience as a professional travel photographer, I've learned that the more planning I do, the smoother my trips. So before each trip I read about my intended destinations and their cultures. I view as many images of the destinations as possible by reviewing past issues of travel magazines, and I visit one or more of the major agencies' websites—like Corbis or Getty—and search for images of the specific cities and areas I'll be visiting. This visual preview allows me to become visually informed while doing some advance location scouting from the comfort of my office chair.


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The Lore of the Landscape - Rosanne Pennella


When you're making a portrait, you can control the light in a number of ways, including how you position your subject in relation to available light, or whether you set up strobes or simply use fill flash. But when you're taking a landscape photo you can't change the essential quality of light in the scene.


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Choose the Right Lens for the Job - Dave Black


One of the questions I'm most often asked is, "What lenses do you use the most?" The answer depends on what sports event I’m covering. Different sports, with their different lighting conditions, require different lenses. If your sports coverage involves outdoor daytime events like golf, soccer, football or baseball, a telephoto or zoom lens with a focal range of 300mm or more and an aperture of f/4 or f/5.6 would be a good choice.


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Mixing Flash and Ambient Light - Dave Black


Combining light from an off-camera flash with ambient (available) light—commonly referred to as using fill flash—is a technique you can use to capture the details often lost when a scene has sharp variations in contrast.


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Fine Focus: Choosing and Using AF Modes - Reed Hoffman


One of the most important features of today's digital cameras is their autofocus operation. Sometimes it seems, though, that AF is also one of the most confusing features—and that may be because there are so many autofocus options available.


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A Basic Look at the Basics of Exposure - Reed Hoffman


I spend a lot of time these days teaching photography. It's great watching people's faces light up when they finally grasp a concept. One of the toughest and most important of those concepts is the relationship between aperture, shutter speed and ISO in making an exposure. Those three are closely connected, and that connection is the basis of every photograph.


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Taking a Closer Look - Reed Hoffman


One of the things I love about photography is how it's changed the way I look at the world. Because of photography, I'm always looking at light, color and backgrounds, thinking about how I might use them in a photo. It's also made me more observant and more aware.


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Creative Use of Depth-of-Field - Cliff Mautner


Control of depth-of-field is one of the most creative tools photographers have. But what exactly is depth-of-field? In the most basic terms, it's the distance in front of and beyond the subject that appears to be in focus.


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Composing Better Images - Rosanne Pennella


Want to increase the "keepers"—those photos that you're proud of and want to share with others? Improving the composition of your photos will dramatically boost their number.


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If spending an entire day on photography, remember different ISO settings on your camera can be used for different times of the day. For early morning, use ISO 100-400; for mid-day sun, use ISO 100-200; for late afternoon to sunset, use ISO 400; and for evenings, use ISO 400-1600.

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